Odeceixe to Lagos
50 kilometres by bus
Friday, September 22, 2017
At 8AM our host at Casa Morais had breakfast laid on the kitchen table with linen tablecloth for eight people with two extra settings ready to go on the counter. Fresh bread and rolls, ham and cheese, spicy pumpkin jam and tomato jam were ready with thermos pots of cafe com leite and black tea. There were individual plastic containers of butter. In a restaurant butter is an extra, usually 70 centimes a serving. Bread and olives are automatically put on the table but cost a few euros. If you say you do not want these, the server takes them away, otherwise you pay for them. You have to ask for sales and pepper if you want those.
According to posters we have seen we are a couple of days ahead of the Fisherman’s Trail Volunteer crew who repaint posts and add new ones. The machete crew does not cut back the trail until the first week of October. We chatted with a Spanish trio: madre, padre, filia at the Blue Sky restaurant last night. They are hiking on to Aljezur today. We have seen them daily on the trail. They said Spain’s Camino was much better posted. We agreed.
We walked around Odeceixe this morning. Odeceixe is built into a steep hillside with a windmill at the top that was built in 1898 for milling corn and wheat. Its sails still operate. There is a new washroom being built nearby for the tourists who climb to the mill. Many folks have large clay pots of flowers lining the fronts of their houses. One man was busy watering pots before ten this morning but paused for a sandwich and a bottle of beer.
The flies have been sticky these past two days and are annoying us now even in this breeze as we wait by the bridge for a bus to Lagos. We did not know that hitchhiking was so easy. Five people with large backpacks have been picked up by three different cars in the last five minutes, going both north and south. The ticket agent warned us that the bus might arrive at 11:40 AM or maybe noon or whenever: it’s on Portuguese time.
It was 12:25 PM when the bus came. The good news is that someone must allow for lateness when calculating travel time. We were told it took an hour and twenty minutes to get to Lagos by bus but we were here in forty-five minutes even though the first few kilometres was spent zigzagging uphill behind a slow motorized trike carrying two crates of dried corn.
The market was closing but the fish stall was interesting. Glad to get an outdoor table at a waterside restaurant. Fried fish then fish soup with cerveja. Good to go again!
We have arrived here. The tourist mecca of the Algarve even though this western end of the Algarve reportedly has fewer tourists. The accordion players and violinists are playing in the streets. The first accordion song was “Somewhere my love…” Perfecto.
Less than a ten minute walk to Dina’s Guesthouse. 20 marble steps to our room that also has a common space kitchen and terrace.
Did some grocery shopping. Will eat early then explore more.