Thursday, May 3, 2018
While in Vieste we stayed close to the centre on the first floor ( that still means up twenty steps) at I Cordari where Rosella and Pietro have eight rooms with ensuites that they rent out. We had the lovely Margherita Room with comfortable bed, two pillows each and extra large fluffy towels, very good WIFI. It was lovely walking around Vieste, back to stair exercise after a couple of flat days.
Rosella put out a wonderful breakfast: specialty nut pastries from the area as well as her own homemade baking, two kinds of pizza, rolls, croissants, almonds, salami, cheese, fruit, freshly squeezed orange juice, cappuccino. No one could go away hungry!
Last night’s dinner at Osteria degli Archi was fabulous. We shared our dishes. We had a platter of five different local cheeses from fresh to old, orecchiette in a white bean sauce with shredded cheese and bacon, a plate of seafood: deep fried sweet shrimp, the best calumari ever, tiny squid, mixed grilled vegetables, a large mixed salad with fruit and vegetables and roasted beans. No room for dessert. The service was excellent. We learned about the area and bought a tin of their locally produced all pressed olive oil.
We finished supper at 9 PM just in time for the concert at the cathedral. I guess the organ tuning was for another day. We had an older singing priest with a rich voice.
It rained last night then stopped for us to walk to our car then it poured. Our first daytime rain since our arrival. We drove the switchbacks on the north side of the Gargano Peninsula past many olive groves. Our GPS took us steeply up one particularly narrow road. Even in first gear our Citroen was struggling. Happily we did not encounter too many cars. One was enough. It forced us to the lip of the precipice. Our windshield wipers are not great.
We left Puglia and are now in Molise region. We arrived in Termini with a little sun and parked on the street a block from our six storey apartment building. We did not quite picture the Anemos B & B in blocks of apartment buildings, but our second floor (40 steps up) room is comfortable and Stephania welcomed us and is planning on eggs for breakfast. She sent us off walking with a map.
We had not gone far when the rain began in earnest with thunder and lightning. We took shelter under arches pathways and made it to Il Gordini where we made our lunch a sampling of deep fried items: potatoes, fish, chicken, rice and cheese with a beer. The rain let up a little and we kept walking. Only one other couple was in the streets. Everyone was having a siesta. Nothing was open, not even the Duomo but we kept walking. The sun eventually came out and the Cathedral dedicated to the Purification of Mary opened at exactly 4 PM as the sign said it would. As with many churches this one was built on the remains of a previous one which was built over a temple. Because of earthquakes and raids this thirteenth century Roman style church has been renovated many times. It was unusual to see so many steps up to the altar.
We observed pigeons and rooks darting in and out of the many drainage slots on the fortified red and yellow brick town walls. We saw little birds peeking out looking for their dinner.
The lengthy sand beach has been almost completely raked. There is a substantial stone break wall protecting the swimming area. Lots of interesting views from the upper town and castle.
We descended to the shore to check out the large fishing boats. We think they may have been rigged to suck up clams. There are also ferries here which travel to the Tremiti Islands and to Vieste. Not for us on such a wavy day! We made our way back up to our room for a rest after 8.2 kilometres of walking with 145 metres of ascent. Many more people came out as shops opened and clouds dispersed.