From Egton Bridge to Robin Hood’s Bay: Lee-Side Manor
27.97 km plus .79 km to the sea= 28.76 km
8:30 AM to 3:40PM PM, 59:30 minutes stopped
652 metres up, 688 metres down
Wednesday, June 8, 2016
We have arrived! Our B and B is gorgeous. Clare is taking good care of us. We have given her a load of laundry, everything we are not wearing. We have each soaked in a high backed Victorian style tub. Yes, it would have been better if it were half a foot longer, but still wonderful. We each have a soft velour robe to wear. It feels quite luxurious.
Robin Hood’s Bay is a lovely town. It is part of the area known as Fylingdales which is comprised of RHB, Fylingthorpe and Fylinghall School. The whole area has a population of 1346. Upon arrival here we went directly to our B and B to check in and clean up then we finished our Coast to Coast by walking downhill to the harbour and stepping into the North Sea. Brian did so in his waterproof shoes. I rolled up my pants and went in barefoot. My feet feel that the water was 68 F, similar to Georgian Bay. I might have to swim tomorrow! The only problem is that I had no way to wash the sand off my feet. Brian insists that I must wash my feet before getting into bed. The sand is still safely inside my socks for now.
We signed the Coast to Coast book at the Wainwright Bar to officially record our journey. We saw Dave and Barbara arrive while we were having a beer in the sunshine on the terrace of the Bar. That was the first sun we felt all day. Dave and Barbara got lost en route; so, ended up arriving two hours after us even though at one point they arrived at Falling Foss Tea Garden as we were leaving it. They should not have arrived more than half an hour behind.
It was an easy day to get lost unless you were using GPS. We are thankful we had Gaia. There was a dearth of signposts today.
The morning was cool then after two kilometres it was misty and visibility was poor for the next six kilometres beginning in Grosmont. This village is noted for its steam train that was getting ready to puff out of the village as we passed through. From Grosmont we climbed a 33% grade for three kilometres in forty-five minutes. Talk about heart pumping. In spite of the heat my body was producing the cold damp air chilled me and I wore my long sleeved merino and my wind jacket. I had stored my gloves and headband in our shipped bag yesterday. Today I regretted not having them. My hands felt like ice.
Our guide book referred to boggy, very boggy and muddy in several places today. That was all true. This was probably our muddiest day. People who say you can wear running shoes after the Lake District are not giving good advice, in my humble opinion. Especially when you consider that we had fifteen days of walking with no rain, I cannot imagine what some of these trails would have been after just one downpour. We did not wear our gaiters. If you wore running shoes you would definitely have needed gaiters. Our harder soled boots provided considerably more comfort for our feet on lots of hard rubble and rock surfaces.
We travelled across Sleights Moor without seeing far. The mist was lifting as we walked into the picturesque hamlet of Little Beck. There was once a famous woodcarver, Thomas Whittaker, here who was known for his gnomes, but we were unable to see any of his work. Little Beck used to be noted for alum mining but there is no evidence left of that, just beautiful homes and gardens.
Little Beck wood reminded us of the Bruce Trail, albeit one of the muddiest sections. There is nothing straight about the Coast to Coast. It meanders north and south sometimes practically turning us back on ourselves, carving deep Vees on our trail. My guess is a straight line distance would be half of what we walked.
We celebrated our ending with dinner at the Wayfarer, a more expensive restaurant than we had anywhere else. Although the lamb shank and crispy duck were good we do not think they were better than what we had at any pub. The server also did not get Brian’s order right. He did not complain but that was the first time that happened. In fact I enjoyed last night’s salmon dinner more than any I had, at seven pound less than tonight’s duck which was over cooked. Last night Brian had another delicious mushroom and steak pie. No room for dessert either night!
More about Robin Hood’s Bay tomorrow when we explore its narrow streets which run steeply to the North Sea. We are delighted to be staying here for two nights. We look toward to Eliane’s arrival tomorrow.