Damp Day

From Danby Wiske to Osmotherley: Vane House
18.75 km
340 metres up, 170 metres down
8:45 AM to 1:28 PM, stopped for 38 minutes
Saturday, June 4, 2016

There was actually an extra room available at Vane House, a family room. Since it had a double bed and two singles, we requested a change from a room with two singles. This room came with a shower. We had not looked to see if the other one had a tub, but we are content now after our hot shower. I think I am even ready for an ice cream cone. I did not long for one at all today as it was such a damp day, but I have yet to have one in England. The village store next door has locally made ice cream. Too tempting.

It was a misty beginning to our morning. All horizons remained lost in mist and fog all day. We regretted not wearing rain pants, and leaving them in our larger bag for shipping, when we entered the first canola field. The canola was as high as my shoulders in many places and our C2C led us through the middle of the wet canola. The front of our legs were soaked several times then they dried in shorter fields and on paved roads.

Our scariest moment was crossing the A19 motorway. There were Two fast lanes in each direction plus two turning lanes. It took five minutes for a break long enough for us to run to the narrow grass median. For the second run across, we did not have to wait as long. A pedestrian bridge would be a grand idea. The locals agree.

When we entered the village of Ingleby Cross, we saw a hand drawn sign with arrow indicating it was coffee morning today. We were beginning to think it was a bad joke when we met a couple who told us to keep going then look sad on arrival to be served as they said the ladies were cleaning up and coffee morning was over. When we entered the warm town hall, my body sighed with relief, then with disappointment as it did look as if we were too late. The good ladies cheerfully got us coffee and tea but apologized that they could only offer us cheese scones with raspberry jam. The sausage rolls and other baked goods were gobbled up in the first hour. We were delighted with our good fortune. One well dressed lady, sitting on the side wall, smiled and engaged us in conversation. She used to be the post mistress for many years in Ingleby Cross. She is in the Wainwright book. She still lives in the house she was born in 91 years ago. I want to be in as good a shape as her when I am 91.

Today was supposed to be very flat and it was until just past Ingleby Cross. It is a good thing we had a hot drink and scone to fortify us for the hour long hill climb then descent into Osmotherley. We did not see any way to visit the ruins of the Mount Grace Priory that was supposed to be hiding at the bottom of the forested hill to our right. We did not glimpse any sign of it through the trees and fog. Barbara and Dave from Wales did visit the priory, said to be one of the better preserved ruins in England. They went a totally different route, by road, minus our hill climb and enjoyed the ruins.

We had breakfast with Dave and Barbara and will again tomorrow as they are in the same B and B. We also breakfasted with two Aussies, Edward and Edward. They are going to meet their wives in London after they finish the walk then visit Venice and Istanbul. People have many different travel plans.

We caught up with Dave and Sue and walked a while with them. We learned that Liam was the drummer for Steel Eye Span. You can find him on YouTube. He has not cut his long beard since the nineties but it is grey now, not brown as in YouTube.

After our shower we had our ice cream cones, Brian his traditional chocolate and I, a vanilla almond caramel. Each cone had a tasty chocolate stick on top. We walked around Osmotherley, a charming village of 668 people. Most of the houses are stone terraced row houses with red tile roofs that were originally built for the workers for the flax mill that now houses a hostel. Flowers adorn the fronts of houses: wisteria, ivy, pansies, columbine and many others. There are three pubs, three tea rooms, a village store and a post office that is only open two and a half days per week. There is the ecumenical St Peter’s Church with stone elements in it that date back to the eleventh century. The St Mary’s Catholic Church is upstairs in a non church like building and is very plain compared to St Peter’s.

In the market square stand a stone obelisk, market cross and a barter table where John Wesley is said to have preached.

Last night we ate enormous steak pies with mixed vegetables on the side. Brian polished mine off. We had no room for appetizers or dessert. Tonight we will be dining at the Queen Catherine Hotel.

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One comment

  1. By my reckoning, you have gone well over the 200 km mark as of today (June 5th) and must be at or near 70% complete… Bravo, Rona Lynn and Brian! And, as the recently-retired Dos Equis spokesman, The Most Interesting Man In The World, might say (with a slight twist), “Stay hydrated, my friends.”

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