From Reeth to Richmond: Rosedale House
9:10 AM – 1:10 PM, moving 3 hrs 55 minutes
Up 376 metres, 434 metres down
Thursday, June 2, 2016
Our distance today brought us to the market square and specifically Cross View Tea Rooms and Restaurant where I could warm my hands with a cup of tea or two or three. While Brian enjoyed his cappuccino with cheeseburger and fries I worked on warming my body with a large bowl of sweet potato, lentil and bacon soup and warm multigrain roll. We arrived too early to go directly to the Rosedale Guest House; so, we lunched and warmed up. When we came out of the tea room we were delighted to see some blue sky and feel today’s elusive sunshine. The cold wind was even dying.
We bought a couple of meat filled pastries for tomorrow’s lunch and walked around the exterior of Richmond Castle. It is huge. That is a long walk. After a visit to the Mountain Sporting Goods
Store where they did not have size 14 socks, we walked uphill to our guest house.
We were greeted by Gordon who gave us a free upgrade to their king size room, twice the size of what we had booked and with a brand new bathroom. No bathtub but a very large shower and a silver toilet seat with sparkles. The wall heater is warming us and the towel heater will dry our t-shirts, socks and undies very nicely. We do a nightly sink washing to start fresh the next day. Drying has sometimes been problematic. We have a lovely room in which we have already had tea, cinnamon toast and our bedside chocolate. We are saving our glass of sherry for after supper.
This was probably our easiest day, certainly our shortest even though it was very cold. Thankfully it was not wet. I do not like cold and wet. One or the other is bad but both together are miserable. We are hoping for an improvement in what is forecast for the next two days. On the other hand we have been most fortunate in nine days of hiking, in spite of anything I may have groaned about it already.
We breakfasted with one UK couple and four Canadians. UK Helen is hiking while her husband moves her luggage, reads the paper and meets her in a pub at day’s end. Helen only has 8 days to do the Coast to Coast; so she averages more than 20 miles day. Helen did the lead mine route yesterday. She could not see a thing and was cold and wet. She looks to be our age. Gary and Linda from Mississauga were at the Irish Sea with us. This is the first we have seen them again. The other couple are not hiking but had brought one of each of their parents to visit relatives in the area. Heather and Mark Taylor are from Tara, Ontario, half an hour from where we live. Mark said, “I think you go to my mother’s church in Owen Sound.” He recognized us! We do not know his mother but he said we usually sit a few pews behind her!
We chatted briefly with two British couples as they left Reeth with us. They are walking the Herriott way. Swaledale is where most of the filming of James Herriott’s All Creatures Great and Small was done.
We passed the Marrick Priory originally founded for Benedictine nuns and dissolved in 1540, once again Henry VIII’s work. What remains of the ruins has been turned into an outdoor education centre. The approach to this building which is partially in ruins shows a very ugly view of messy newer agricultural buildings and piles of old tires, but from the other side the mess is not visible. Two Brits were sitting on the hillside at the edge of a forest looking down on the monastery. He was doing a very detailed sketch and she was writing in her notebook. They were at the beginning of the 375 steps that the nuns built through a deeply shaded woods fragrantly lined with wild garlic. The steps took us up to the nearby village of Marrick.
We crossed through two fields that each had an enormous bull in it. One was unusual shades of grey. Neither bull paid us any attention. They only had eyes for the cows.
Richmond is the big town on our route. It has a population of 8413. Today a carnival is set up in the town square. The castle was built in the 11th century. From the enormous walls one must have had an incredible view of the Swale and the surrounding area. I will have to read more about the history of this area after we go home.
Time for a hot shower! We slept reasonably well last night even without drugs. The clay pigeon shooters partied hearty but for the most part we tuned them out. The enormous Yorkshire pudding filled with delicious beef and gravy had a soporific effect. Brian’s steak and ale pie was equally satisfying.
To my Cobble friends: I hope you enjoy your first yoga class tomorrow. I will be thinking of you!