Path of the Gods
Thursday April 19, 2018
I have decided that the reason for our delay of a week had more to do with weather than health. We have heard that last week was rainy on the Amalfi Coast and this week is sunny. Hurray!
What a fabulous hike we had today with a temperature of 23 C, full-on sunshine but just enough shade and breeze when we needed it most. We hiked the Path of the Gods from Montepertuso to Bomerano and back, 14.3 kilometres in five and a half hours of moving time plus eighty minutes of breaks. There were 422 metres of ascent and descent. Basically we kept going up, up, up then down, down, down but none of it bothered us as much as yesterday’s stair climbing. No doubt not carrying a pack and having our walking sticks made the hike easier.
We took the high route going and the low route coming back. We would not recommend the low route for anyone with vertigo or knee problems, very rugged underfoot. Brian found the return journey to be harder. With his leg brace and support bandage he garnered a lot of attention and admiration.
There were many wildflowers and small ferns. Some of the flowers may have been orchids. We saw various yellows, pinks, and blues as well as purple, orange, white flowers and calla lilies. Two different shades of green lizards repeatedly scurried across our path or up trees or rocks. Only three butterflies: yellow, orange, white. Donkeys, horses, sheep and goats were often heard before they were seen. We feasted our eyes on the Amalfi Coast. I never tire of views of water and it was especially beautiful from varying heights with glimpses of Positano, Montepertuso, Nocelle, Praiano and Bomerano and the ferry and other boats making patterns in the sea.
Soon after Nocelle, near the beginning of our day we found ourselves in the middle of a British group. I said to Brian, “That sure looks like Paul, two ahead of us, and Joanna, two behind us.” They are two of the Niagara Bruce Trail Club hikers. I could not be sure but when Joanna looked me in the eye, we both knew. We walked together for part of the way and had a break together at Bomerano after which they continued with their group to San Lazzaro where their van was waiting and we returned to Montepertuso.
Again a hot shower was all that was needed to cheer us. We are lounging in the shade of our deck. Brian is reading his novel and we are hearing the excited shouts and joy from below as soccer goals are scored. Brian peeks over the edge now and then to see them running around in a dust bowl.
Last night we had dinner at Il Ritrovo restaurant about five hundred metres below us. Salvatore, our host, recommended it as good Italian food and not as expensive as the other restaurant below. When we saw the prices on the menu we were not so sure. Apparently in Italy one is expected to order an appetizer, a first course and a second course. Not only would that have broken the bank but we did not want that much food. We figured we would order what we wanted and if that was insufficient we would get thrown out; so, that was fine. Brian ordered a Calabrese salad and spaghetti with sausage in tomato sauce. I ordered mixed grilled vegetables with three cheese ravioli. Everything was perfect. Not only did we not get thrown out but we were given complimentary prosecco, bruschetta and almond cookies. Receiving our bill took a little while. Our server was very apologetic. It turns out he is the brother of the chef and part owner. He gave us a sachet of the restaurant’s herbs for making bruschetta at home. He said the restaurant has been extra busy. The madness has begun. He is looking forward to November.
A good buffet breakfast this morning: cheeses, salami, cheese bread, fruit bread, two other breads, toasting available, sweet green melon, four homemade jams, yogourt, soles, pears, bananas, juice and cappuccino or other hot drinks available.
The internet is a little weak here; so, not easy to send the blog, especially with photos.